day trip to Cobh

Woke up and ate an obscene breakfast at the Garnish House - scones, porridge, fruit, bacon, sausage, pudding, eggs, coffee, juice, and then they asked if we wanted pancakes. The Irish really like to eat a big breakfast! Over breakfast we decided to head out to Cobh to checkout the museum there which had been recommended by a couple of people we've talked to. On our way there we walked through the English Market which is like a Pike's Place market on steroids - lots of fresh produce, meats, poultry, fish, flowers, etc.

The train to Cobh was an easy 26 minute ride which we ran to catch at the last minute. The Cobh Heritage Museum is mostly about the mass exodus of Irish during the potato famines of the late 1840s and the ships that took them there, Cobh being the main port for ships to and from the US. The museum also had exhibits on the making of the Titanic, the sinking of the Lusitania, the contest between the various ship lines to make bigger, faster, more luxurious cruise ships and what it was like to travel on them.

After spending 90 minutes or so in the museum we stopped into local pub Kelly's for a pint before checking out the rest of the town. Cobh is built on a hillside so we got an extra workout going up and down the streets, some rivaling the streets of San Francisco. The center of Cobh is dominated by St Colman's cathedral.

While were wandering around Cobh a huge cruise ship pulled into port and was getting ready to dock. Having experienced the mass unloading of cruise ship people in Mexico we were quick to decide it was time to leave and ran for the train back to Cork.

That night we had dinner at Boqueria followed by a couple of pints and some traditional Irish music at Sin E, recommended by both our guidebook and our buddy Dave from the previous day.

Enniskerry to Cork

After checkout from Summerhill House we drove to Cork - not a direct path. Back up towards Dublin to catch the correct road/highway. Smooth sailing for a couple of hours, with a detour in Cashel, County Tipperary, for lunch at Feehans Pub. Honey chicken salad - yum! The fun really started when we hit Cork City and the three lane traffic circles. After going wrong direction in two of them we course corrected and finally made it to the Garnish House. Chuck was crispy from the city navigating and driving but they offered tea and biscuts (scones) on arrival and the baked goods set him right.
After settling in we roamed around Cork City to get the lay of the land and stoped for a pint at Cavanaghs pub. This is where the day got really interesting. The pub was pretty empty but the bartender was friendly, though seemed a bit spacey, and after serving Chuck's Murphys and my wine he got chatty. His name was Dave and he was not the bartender. He was a local regular, friend of the owners (admittedly drunk) and just filling in while the real bartender on duty was making sandwhichs in the back for - get this - two other Americans that happened into the pub. We have seen little to no other Amercians this whole trip. So we talk to Dave and he decides we are ok (for Americans). He has never been to the US and really does not know where Portland is so we talk more and he does the usual - asks about Obama and health reform. In the meantime he takes our city maps and gives up recommendations for pubs and restuarants that only locals would go to. Then the other two Americans come over to chat - LET ME JUST SAY THIS - they are from Orlando and work at the Hard Rock Cafe. We distance ourselves immediately and leave to go to dinner. We find out that the owners bought our drinks - very nice!!!
Dave recommended several places but we settled on an Irish version of a tapas bar called An Cruibin, which was excellent. The bartender reminded us of Agidor Sparticus from the birdcage, but he was Spanish and not Guatemelean. Toward the end of dinner some local artists collected and played some random pick up music. Great evening.

daytrip to Glendalough, County Wicklow

Chuck decided I needed to try my hand at driving after his trauma yesterday. After a few spins around the parking lot we were off down the left side! It was mostly a quiet country road drive down to Glendalough in the Wicklow National Park so we made it just fine. Three hour hike around the park with beautiful views of the two lakes. Going up to one viewpoint we came along a group of hikers we thought were local but then I heard some Spanish interspersed with the Irish accent English... hmmm. We heard them talking about how you never know what language to greet people in since there are so many visitors in Ireland. When we passed the man said "buenas dias" (trying to be funny?) so I said "benuas dias, como estas? Tienes un buen dia". Who knew Spanish would come in handy in Ireland. We kept going but ended up chatting with that group at the view point. Local walking club who also happen to be language enthusiasts and they practice speaking Spanish and German while they walk. Great hike and interesting people.
We had a late lunch in the town of Larough before taking a sceneic drive back over Sally Gap (Chuck driving).
We had dinner at the hotel - just us as most of the guests are here for a wedding... and they partied all night! The hotel comped our dinner and wine on checkout - we think due to the wedding party noise.

Dublin to Enniskerry

Happy birthday grandma EH!!!
Waiting for Avis rental car shuttle, Connor (concierge at Brooks) gave us recommendations for our journey; go to city of Cobh in County Cork to see the Heritage Center and to go to Aaran Islands off of Galway. Picked up rental car... stick shift, opposite side of car and driving on left sided of road. It was a little hairy getting out We went down a side road and couldn't figure out how to put the car in reverse (pull the ring up and shift). After great trauma to Chuck driving we made it to Enniskerry in County Wicklow.
After check in we walked 20 min or so to the Powerscourt Estate to tour gardens (and we thought) the estate house. Evidently the estate has been turned into a tourist shopping mecca (disappointingly) but we toured the gardens, which were very beautiful. We walked into Enniskerry town and ventured into a local pub called Nancy Murphy's. All locals watching horse racing (and betting) on TV. After a pint and trying not to seem out of place (very thick accents and no idea what they were talking about) an older man came in and was so gregarious, talking, giving flak to everyone in the place; we chatted with him for a pint or two and left very amused.

wanderings around Dublin

Time change sucks! Woke up at 3:30 and then tried to sleep off and on until maybe 6:00. I had my first go with the in-room "kettle" to make coffee/tea, housed in the pull out butler in the closet next to the trouser press. Success so Chuck was able to get up. Since breakfast comes with every hotel/guest house/B&B stay here, we headed to the dining room. Breakfast is HUGE in Ireland and there is a large continental buffet and then you can order off the hot menu. Chuck had the traditional Irish breakfast (eggs, bacon, sausage, mushrooms, tomato and blood pudding).
Walked to Trinity College to see the Book of Kells exhibit and the old library called Long Hall. The Book of Kells exhibit is excellent - so much history of the early monks in Ireland and of process to create the book. The library is amazing as well - well worth the 7 Euro per person.
Strolled through St. Stephen's Green, a beautiful city park, and walked around Merion Square area, which houses many government buildings, solicitors' offices and a park with a creepy statue of Oscar Wilde.
Stopped in Toner's Pub (crusty rusty) for a pint and lunch. Completely traditional and old school. Toured the national art gallery after lunch - worth the trip. Stopped at another old school traditional Dublin pub full of regulars called Crogan's Castle where several amusing things were overheard... "Hello Tommy, hello Jimmy, hello Danny". Made me think of the scene in Good Will Hunting where Will lists off his 10/12 brothers to Skyler.
Dinner at Clarendon bar - Chuck says excellent bangers and mash. Great second day.

Kerry's birthday in Dublin, Ireland!

Arrived in Dublin from Portland via Atlanta around 8:30 am. Quick and easy pass through immigration and customs - out front door and on the blue bus - 15 min to Trinity College stop and a five minute walk to the hotel. A smooth arrival. Brooks Hotel very accommodating, greeted by Connor (concierge/bellhop) and Lisa (front desk who re-booked our stay for us due to volcano). Great hotel, comfortable room and excellent staff and service.
After freshening up we walked across town about 20 min (one stop hiding from downpour) to the Guinness Storehouse, which at 15 Euro per person is a bit pricey and touristy. I couldn't bring myself to buy anything at the large gift shop but the tour is interesting and the pint on the 7th floor Gravity Bar (especially with a break in the clouds/rain), gave us fantastic views and a chance to listen to the many languages of visitors enjoying their pints to the sound of Michael Jackson and other 80s American music.
After the walk back and a well needed nap (rough go the first day from red eye and 8 hour time change) we headed to the Old Stand Pub at Gerard's (from desk) recommendation. We were in for a treat when we sat at the bar and started talking to a local, Danny, who was about 75 and at no loss to chat, ask questions or give his opinion on the state of affairs in Ireland and the US (gave thanks for voting Obama into office). After chatting for awhile and exchanging names Danny said, "Kerry, look at ya, you're a paddy".
We followed up with dinner at Jewel in the Crown, an Indian restaurant up the street. Excellent food. We ended the evening with a drink at the hotel bar where Ruthie had a cheesecake sent to our room for a surprise dessert. All in all a great birthday!